When the BNP Paribas Open hits the Indian Wells Tennis Garden (IWTG) each spring, it turns the complex into one of the biggest little cities in the West.

Strictly speaking, this column is dedicated to a personal tour of one of the cities in our Valley. It would appear that a tour of the Indian Wells Tennis Garden deviates from that mission unless you consider this: for nearly two weeks in March, approximately 450,000 people will attend the BNP Paribas Open, making Larry Ellison’s little tennis complex nearly equal in population to the entire Coachella Valley.  

Though far from sprawling, the Tennis Garden does require some navigating. In my past visits to the tournament, I’ve tended to go where the cheering is the loudest (sometimes, it’s the practice courts) or the lines are the shortest (the Champagne Pavilion … I’ve never gotten within first-serve distance of Nobu). This year, I’d like to know where the hell it is I’m going. To this end, I enlisted the aid of Tennis Garden marketing whizzes Brittany Trabert and Jamie Edwards to give me the grand tour.

“The Indian Wells Tennis Garden was built in 1999 and the first tournament was in 2000,” says Trabert as she leads us to the loge level of Stadium 1. “Stadium 1 is the second largest tennis stadium in the world, behind Arthur Ashe in New York – 16,100 seats. We’ve got over 40 suites and broadcast booths, a media center, and a restaurant that overlooks the court. When Mr. Ellison bought [the Garden], he sunk the court to make room for more seats. He created the Champions Lounge, added 21 concessions, and completely rebuilt the outside of the stadium.”

Just outside Stadium 1, we did a quick detour north to the Retail Village, an area of humongous tents. FILA, the Open’s official footwear and apparel supplier, is the dominant store, though there are some unexpected retailers as well such as Palm Springs’ Trina Turk. Trabert said the use of the tents gives the Garden greater flexibility in terms of sizing space for various retail vendors, though permanent buildings might be added in the future.

As we meander over to the shade area (which, in fact, can shade a few thousand overheated spectators), Trabert explains that “Garden” became part of the tennis center’s identity after Ellison instituted a massive planting program of palm trees, grass, shrubs, and flowers. Despite the surrounding stadiums, the complex might be one of the most verdant spots in the Valley. Trabert stops at a corner of the shade area. “We’ve had a stage for quite a while and we have nightly entertainment throughout the tournament. The Bryan Brothers Band (Mike and Bob Bryan, the most successful doubles team in the history of tennis) typically play on Friday nights. They pack the place.”

Another Ellison improvement is Stadium 2, which he had rebuilt as a permanent structure in 2014. The stadium holds 8,000 spectators and matches through the quarterfinals are played here. It’s an intimate space – not a bad seat in the house – and is particularly popular for doubles action. The biggest names in the game play in Stadium 2 and it’s almost like you can reach out and give them a pat on the back. “There are some reserved seats, but it’s mostly general admission,” says Trabert. “When the doors open in the morning, people will literally run for Stadium 2 to get a good seat and they just sit here all day until they can [watch] whatever match they want to see.” 

The popularity and international fame of Stadium 2 is also due to the presence of Nobu, the upscale sushi purveyor with restaurants worldwide. Trabert and Edwards lead me into the deserted, off-season space. I instinctively make my way over to the long bar-like table set against the window. From here, lucky patrons can nibble sashimi while watching the play not far below. The restaurant does nearly 6,000 seatings during the tournament. It’s long been my dream to watch a match while washing down a cone of salmon roe with an ice cold Sapporo. I hope this isn’t the closest I ever get. 

We stroll over to the practice courts. Most of the courts are occupied by club members. It’s easy to forget that the Garden is an active, year-round facility, with some local players coming in at dawn or after dark in the summer. Pickleball has also found its way into the IWTG. Last year, the national championships were held here and 22,000 spectators showed up for the fun. The practice courts are my favorite place to go during the tournament. I once watched Rafael Nadal practice for an hour or so. He was a few feet away at times. Officially, we’re the same height, but he seems like a giant, powerful, like he could play a Fiat like an accordion. Trabert led us up a flight of stairs overlooking two practice courts. I never knew this spot existed. It’s the perfect place to watch the pros smack the ball around. But, I’m not telling you where it is. This one’s for me.