Liz Ostoich | Lani Garfield/I Want To See Productions/Photos By Lani
Surviving the COVID-19 pandemic has been tough for all Palm Springs-area businesses, but restaurateurs who are adapting and persevering have learned a few things along the way while strengthening the bonds of their community.
Liz Ostoich, who along with her husband Mark co-owns sister restaurants Farm and Tac/Quila in Palm Springs, told Desert Magazine that she now sees other restaurants in a whole new light.
"The primary lesson that I learned through the pandemic is that other restaurants are not competitors -- they are friends with similar experiences, who can help you navigate challenges, from the simple to the complex," Ostoich said. "You can also build one another up by celebrating each other’s victories and novel ideas. This is what true community is all about."
That bond with fellow restauranteurs also is important to Chris Malm who, with Bruce Bloch, co-owns Jake's on North Palm Canyon Drive in Palm Springs.
"I especially enjoyed the camaraderie of my fellow restaurateurs, and the bond is one of assistance not competition," Malm said. "We all root and respect each other now instead of being ambivalent."
Palm Springs-area restaurants "have different vibes," particularly as most -- if not all -- are small businesses especially hard hit by the pandemic, Malm said.
"The variety makes the town special," he said. "And the businesses are owned by nice people who are all in the same boat."
For Willie Rhine who, with John Paschal, co-owns and operates Eight4Nine on North Palm Canyon Drive in Palm Springs, the biggest take-away lesson since March of last year when the pandemic settled over the Palm Springs area and the rest of the nation has been about community perseverance.
"Together we can get through anything," Rhine said. "From the very beginning of this pandemic, I saw community compassion from our guests and from colleagues in our industry, some who one might describe as competitors. It was beautiful; we are incredibly grateful for the support of our guests. The other big lesson was in adaptation; we had to learn how to adapt very quickly to the ever-changing rules and conditions."
The importance of adaptation was echoed by Jack Srebnik, who partners with Ellen Spencer at The Slice in Rancho Mirage and Todd Flood at Maracas on South Palm Canyon Drive in Palm Springs.
He added that "appreciation" follows on adaptation.
"We have learned to adapt on the fly," Srebnik said. "Throughout this last year, we as restaurateurs have had to change the way we do business many times."
COVID-19 hit the Palm Springs area, Sonoran Desert, Coachella Valley and Riverside County about as hard as it could just before spring 2020, forcing the closure of most so-called "non-essential" indoor businesses.
"First inside dining was closed so we shifted all of our business to to-go, curbside pickup and delivery," Srebnik said. "When it was changed to allow inside dining, we staffed up and learned how to maintain a safe and COVID-free environment by sanitizing our tables and chairs after each seating. We went to single-use condiments and table settings. We removed tables and added glass partitions on our booths."
Through the challenges posted by the pandemic, Palm Springs area restaurants also stepped up to help maintain the community's cohesiveness.
FARM and Tac/Quila hired an out-of-work camera personality to produce "The People are the City," which includes video clips about local businesses and their stories, as well as encouraging locals to visit a place they haven't been to.
Jake's frequently sent lunch and dinner to Desert Regional Medical Center's emergency room, Kaiser Permanente in Palm Desert, and to area fire and police departments.
The restaurant also created an alternative supermarket, Jake's Fresh Air Market, to offer a COVID-responsible space for farmers and other sellers of vegetables, fruits, meat and fish, and wine. The market attracted local artist Michael Weems, who set up his own table.
Eight4Nine created the program that leveraged contributions to create "Good Friday." The program delivered meals at Eisenhower Medical Center's urgent care facilities, the Desert AIDS Project's COVID Center, the Desert Regional Medical Center emergency room and a few other facilities from Palm Springs to La Quinta. This was done with the help of contributions.
"We basically did everything for a little less than cost," Rhine said.
He personally delivered meals to frontline workers, and Eight4Nine participated in the area's "Great Plates" program that for months fed 80 seniors three meals a day, an effort that kept 20 staff members working full time.
The Slice and Maracas also participated in the Great Plates program in addition to donating copious amounts of pizza and burritos to frontline workers.
"We are also very appreciative of all of our customers that go out of their way to frequent our restaurant as often as possible and also how well they treat our staff," Srebnik said. "There are a lot of restaurants to choose from to eat, and we are privileged to have such great support from our locals."
In addition to watching out for the community, area restaurants also have been mindful of their staff. Rhine said one of his goals throughout the pandemic was to "find ways to keep as many people working as possible."
"A wise friend once told me not to worry about what is coming in but worry about what is going out; his words are so applicable today," Rhine said. "If there is a silver lining, the pandemic has forced us to look at every aspect of our operation, and we have an opportunity to correct any errors and improve going forward, reaping the rewards of those changes long after the pandemic is over. It's almost a restart."
Heading into spring is not too early to think about putting the pandemic behind and looking more to the future -- but not forget what everyone has been through.
"Post-pandemic, I am certain to hold onto these industry friendships," Ostoich said. "You never forget those people that were in the foxhole with you and had your back while you were all under siege. This is a tough business, so knowing there is always someone handy that understands the struggle is so reassuring."
The "after time" also will be a time to remember "our creative skills" and to keep them sharp, Ostoich said.
"We started designing and bottling cocktails; we began looking at all of the industries in our community as a family; and we started supporting our neighbors with gift card purchases, cross-promotional opportunities, and social media shout-outs," she said. "It has been really unifying!"
But the "post-pandemic" time still remains elusive.
"I wish we knew when 'after the pandemic' will be," Srebnik said. "The effects of this pandemic (are) still with us and will be for a long time. We will continue to follow the state and local requirements. We will continue to give our customers the best eating experience that we can. We also are trying to keep as many employees working as possible."