My best friend and I packed a picnic dinner and headed to Zabriskie Point in Death Valley National Park before sunset. “Zabriskie Point” is also the name of a 1970 American film directed by Michelangelo Antonioni. It tells the story of a young college student, on the run from the police, who meets up with a young woman, and they travel to Death Valley. Though the movie was dismissed by critics at the time, it developed a level of cult status in the intervening years. A recent viewing of the film showed the unique national park beautifully portrayed by the film’s cinematography. This inspired a trip to Death Valley.
We arrived during French spring break, and Death Valley was full of Gallic families – presumably there to enjoy the famed lowest, hottest, and driest American national park. The destination looms large in French travel lore, and the wildflowers were in epic form. The 2024 desert bloom – and the rare phenomenon of the salt flats in Badwater Basin being underwater because of unusual amounts of rain – were magnets for many visitors.
It’s approximately a 4.5-hour drive from Greater Palm Springs to Zabriskie Point. The visit is well worth the drive … especially if the influx of visitors during Modernism Week makes you yearn for unpeopled, wide open spaces. It was already quite warm in mid-April – 100 degrees on most days – so we had to do all of our exploring in the mornings or late afternoons and evenings.
Many others joined us at Zabriskie Point: Instagram influencers, families, foreigners, and diehard outdoor enthusiasts. Besides worrying that hordes of inexperienced travelers would careen off the hillside while posing for the perfect selfie, it was a lovely evening of camaraderie, multilingual oohs and ahs at Mother Nature's performance, and a true sense of connectedness to humanity in this extraordinary landscape.
We met a lovely couple from Yucca Valley – Charles and Nancy McHenry – who were sitting in the cool, covered courtyard at the Furnace Creek Visitor Center. Nancy – who we learned is an artist – rummaged in her bag and generously gave beautiful ceramic pendants she made to my friend and I. The McHenrys are in their 60s; they have lived in Yucca Valley for 22 years and are deeply engaged in their community. Both volunteer at the library in the town of Joshua Tree and help raise money for reading programs for children in the area. They also volunteer at an art gallery in the city of Twentynine Palms – a non-profit organization that helps local artists showcase their work and hosts art classes for children.
As we spoke, Nancy chortled and said she was excited to get back and see the results of a recent kiln firing of her ceramic work. Charles said he volunteers at the California Welcome Center in Yucca Valley, “where I assist people visiting the area with ideas of what to do here and in the low desert. One of the reasons that I wanted to make the trip to Death Valley was in response to questions people had about it.” He talked about the “circuit” many Europeans take around California and how he wanted to have information to share when he was questioned about Death Valley. They made the trek, he said, because “this year was a good time to go because of all the rain that the area had received, which resulted in some great wildflowers.” Charles was interested in the remoteness and the sense that “Death Valley looks much the same as it did in the 1800s, with much more open areas than what we normally would see in the Coachella Valley.”
If you decide to make a visit to Death Valley, be prepared. You need to be aware of the elements and have plenty of water. My friend and I had both been there years before and wild-camped. This time, we opted to stay at a campground; it was a good call due to the April heat and access to water at the Furnace Creek Campground. We made reservations a few weeks before the trip, then stayed a stone’s throw from The Ranch at Death Valley and paid for daily access to the pool and other amenities. It was nice to swim, take a shower, buy ice, and find shade and internet service during the heat of the day. The 275-room hotel was refurbished and has welcomed visitors since 1933. Family-friendly and affordable, it was teeming with both energetic and bedraggled families.
The luxurious and historic Inn at Death Valley sits up on a hill; we explored the grounds one evening. It has an old Hollywood vibe, and I half-expected to catch a glimpse of Clark Gable or Carole Lombard stepping out of a Ford Model T. The historic inn, an elegant hideaway that’s been around since 1927, is called “the Crown Jewel of Death Valley.” A spring-fed pool and date palm garden are inviting and make the spot seem true to its oasis pedigree.
There are other places to camp or stay, but you need to make reservations; you will soon see how far distances are between sights, gas stations, and amenities.
Our three-day itinerary is listed below. If you want to experience the full gamut of Death Valley’s offerings, you might need to extend your stay by a few days.
Zabriskie Point
A 15-minute drive from the Furnace Creek Visitor Center will bring you to this not-to-be-missed vista point, named after a former vice president of the Pacific Coast Borax Company. It has the best view in Death Valley and is a perfect spot for sunrise- and sunset-gazing. To get there from the parking lot, you’ll walk a short distance up a hill on a paved trail.
Badwater Basin
Badwater Basin is the lowest point in North America at 282 feet below sea level. The salt flats cover nearly 200 square miles. There was so much precipitation in 2024 that people could kayak and paddleboard standing up in the transient bodies of water that formed in early spring. The view is worth the one-mile round trip walk to the edge. We enjoyed going barefoot for a spell and experiencing the natural elements around us.
Natural Bridge
This site is an impressive geologic formation that’s nestled back in a canyon; it’s a short, easy hike up a wash to the natural arch. Although rain is infrequent in Death Valley, flash floods carved this canyon over time. This site is a good option for people who are not avid hikers. It’s great for families and geology lovers, as well.
Golden Canyon
This site requires a more moderate hike (two-miles, round trip), but the rewards are golden. There are towering walls and colorful side canyons to explore, formations created by ancient water flow, and possible wildlife sightings. We went in the evening and the light was resplendent.
Artists Palette
This is a marquee spot along the Artists Drive scenic loop. Visitors can bask in an array of colors (red, orange, yellow, blue, pink, and green) that are displayed across the hills. The colors come from volcanic deposits that are rich in compounds such as iron oxides and chlorite and create a rainbow effect.
Harmony Borax Works
This plant played an important role in Death Valley history. It went out of operation in 1888 – after only five years of production – and was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974. The site is a quick interpretive circuit that fleshes out the story of Death Valley.
Mesquite Flats Sand Dunes
This is my favorite spot in the entire Valley. You can live out your Lawrence of Arabia fantasies or at least create some cool Instagram content. But, the real joy is hiking into the dunes and getting a 360-degree view of this exceptional landscape. I wet a sarong, draped it over my big floppy hat, and truly experienced the scene. The white dune fields are constantly shifting and are known for dramatic shadows at sunrise and sunset. It’s also a magical place to experience starry nights.
Mosaic Canyon
Mosaic Canyon is just what it sounds like – walls composed of tiny, jagged fragments of various types and shades of rock trapped within natural cement. It’s a moderately difficult hike – approximately four miles out and back. Some spots are wide washes, and others are narrow boulder jams that you can scramble over if you’re adventurous.
Panamint Valley
This site is a 65-mile-long and 10-mile-wide basin located in the northeastern reach of the Mojave Desert. When we drove in, it was covered in desert sunflowers. The sea of yellow was a vision to behold.
Father Crowley Vista Point
This overlook, located near the western park boundary, is definitely worth stopping at. The site offers a stunning view into Rainbow Canyon, which is a colorfully striped canyon created by ancient volcanic activity. A short quarter-mile walk leads from the parking area to this site, which overlooks Panamint Valley. We stopped here to take in the views and have a picnic. A restroom is available for visitors.
Darwin Falls
The road to Darwin Falls was washed out due to the aforementioned heavy rainfall, so it was closed when we visited. No one would expect to see a waterfall in this unassuming corner of the desert, but apparently the lush, spring-fed water creates a dreamy oasis environment. You might see a tree frog or bighorn sheep enjoying the aquatic splendor.
